We’re a nation – a globe, in fact - obsessed with our hair. Analysts at Goldman Sachs estimate the global hair products industry to be worth $38bn (£22.6bn) – and growing at a rate of up to seven per cent a year.
我們生活在一個對頭發癡迷的時代。高盛集團的分析師估計全球的護發產品行業的總價值達380億美元(約226億英鎊),並以每年7%的速度不斷增長。
There seems to be no limit on what we’ll spend to avoid a bad hair day. But for devotees of an underground beauty movement, the secret lies in ditching the shampoo, in fact all the hair products, for good.
在zai這zhe種zhong情qing況kuang下xia,我wo們men想xiang要yao擁yong有you一yi頭tou飄piao逸yi的de秀xiu發fa簡jian直zhi易yi如ru反fan掌zhang。但dan是shi對dui地di下xia愛ai美mei運yun動dong的de支zhi持chi者zhe來lai說shuo,護hu發fa的de秘mi訣jue在zai於yu永yong遠yuan放fang棄qi使shi用yong諸zhu如ru洗xi發fa水shui之zhi類lei的de任ren何he護hu發fa產chan品pin。
The ‘no-poo’ method, which involves using natural substitutes or just water in place of shampoo and conditioner, has credibility within several circles.
“no poo”方法,意為用天然替代品或清水洗發來代替洗發水和護發素。這個方法得到很多人的支持。
Beauty insiders, including writers for women’s magazines and professional hairdressers, rave about how hair becomes thicker, fuller and more lustrous.
使用這種方法後,頭發會變得更加厚實柔亮,包括女性雜誌作家、專業美發師等在內的美容行家們對此都是讚不絕口。
And thrifty environmentalists rejoice at the lack of chemicals in and on their bodies - not to mention the impact on their budgets.
這種方法不僅能讓洗發者從內到外遠離化學物品,還省了不少錢。
Now one devotee is hoping to take it mainstream. Lucy Aitken Read, whose book Happy Hair: The definitive guide to giving up shampoo was released last week, hasn’t used shampoo in two years and her glowing auburn hair is visibly in perfect condition (see the photos if you don’t believe me).
這項運動的一位支持者露西·瑞德希望能將這個活動主流化。她寫了一本書名為《快樂頭發:放棄使用洗發水的權威指南》,上周出版。露西已經有兩年不使用洗發水了,但是她的一頭栗色頭發看起來狀態相當好)。
For her, the motivation came after reading a study that claimed women put 515 chemicals on their bodies daily. “I initially thought ‘Ha! They didn’t research me!’,” Aitken Read says. “Then I looked at the back of my shampoo bottle and realised there were loads of ingredients I didn’t recognise in the slightest.
露西開始有“不再使用洗發水”的想法是受到一篇研究的影響,這篇研究稱女性每天用在自己身上的化學物質有515種之多。“我當時就想‘我可不是這樣的’,露西說,‘然後我立刻查看我使用的洗發水瓶子上的成分說明,這才意識到原來裏麵包含了那麼多我完全不懂的成分。’”
She does admit she was worried about the grease factor. “My hair used to get greasy the day after I washed it and I was addicted to dry shampoo. Hand on heart, I wasn’t sure how long I would last.”
露西承認剛開始的時候她很擔心油膩問題。“我洗完頭發第二天,頭發就會變油,所以過去我很喜歡用幹性洗發水。說實話,我並不確定這種狀態會持續多久。”
Paradoxically it’s greasy hair that could benefit the most from giving up shampoo. The theory behind the ‘no-poo’ method is that shampoo strips the hair of its natural oils, which prompts the scalp to generate more oils to replace them. This results in oil overload – greasy hair – which we then attempt to ‘fix’ with more shampoo. It’s a vicious circle and quite a brilliant coup for the shampoo industry, because the more shampoo you use, the more you need to use and the more frequently you need to use it.
奇怪的是,放棄使用洗發水得到的最大的好處恰好就是一頭油油的頭發。“no poo”方法背後遵循的原理是,洗發水奪去了頭發上的天然油脂,而這又促使頭皮分泌更多新的天然油脂。結果就是頭皮出油過多、頭發變油膩,然後我們會用更多的洗發水來“修複”。這就像一個惡性循環,但這卻造福了洗發水行業—你使用的洗發水越多,你買的量越大,買的次數越多。
Left to its own devices or washed with natural substitutes, the scalp eventually theoretically returns to its natural balance, producing enough oil to keep hair soft and smooth without the associated grease-slick. The oils produced by the scalp – notably sebum – keep the shaft of the hair clean, smooth and protected, performing the role of ‘shampoo and conditioner’ far more effectively than the manufactured alternatives. The upshot should be healthier hair that is stronger, thicker and fuller as it is less damaged than shampooed hair.
使shi用yong天tian然ran的de洗xi發fa水shui替ti代dai品pin,然ran後hou把ba這zhe些xie問wen題ti都dou留liu給gei頭tou發fa自zi己ji去qu調tiao節jie,理li論lun上shang來lai說shuo頭tou皮pi最zui終zhong將jiang會hui達da到dao一yi種zhong平ping衡heng狀zhuang態tai,在zai這zhe種zhong狀zhuang態tai之zhi下xia,頭tou皮pi將jiang會hui產chan生sheng適shi量liang的de油you脂zhi來lai維wei持chi頭tou發fa軟ruan滑hua。頭tou皮pi產chan生sheng的de油you脂zhi具ju有you滋zi養yang發fa根gen,保bao護hu頭tou發fa的de功gong能neng,這zhe些xie油you脂zhi雖sui然ran充chong當dang了le洗xi發fa水shui的de角jiao色se,但dan對dui人ren類lei的de損sun傷shang卻que遠yuan小xiao於yu人ren造zao洗xi發fa水shui,其qi結jie果guo就jiu是shi你ni的de頭tou發fa將jiang會hui變bian得de更geng加jia健jian康kang強qiang壯zhuang,充chong盈ying厚hou實shi。
Most ‘no-pooers’ use alternatives to shampoo and Aitken Read’s book contains 30 different shampoo, conditioner and styling alternatives. Put together, they read like a cake recipe – bicarbonate of soda, flour, egg, honey, lemon juice. But after a period of time most find just plain old water does the job fine. “I use water on my hair every three to four days, and every 10 to 14 days I might use an egg on it, or some bicarbonate of soda,” Aitken Read explains.
許多不用洗發水的人都會使用洗發水的替代品,所以露西的書中介紹了30種洗發水、護發素、造型用品等的替代品。這些替代品包括小蘇打、麵粉、雞蛋、蜂蜜、檸檬汁等,看起來就像是一份蛋糕配方。但是一段時間以後發現隻是普通的自來水就很有用。“我每三四天用清水洗一次頭發,每10到14天用一次雞蛋或一些小蘇打。”露西說。
“Last night somebody on Twitter saw a link to my book and tweeted saying four people in her office were doing it. It’s gone crazy.”
“昨天晚上還有人在推特上看到我新書的鏈接,然後發推特告訴我說她們辦公室裏已經有4個人開始嚐試這種方法了,根本停不下來。”
Tempted to go ‘no-poo’? Here’s your essential checklist:
如果你也想嚐試“no poo”的方法,下麵是幾條基本的建議。
1. Bicarbonate of soda. The traditional alternative to shampoo, cleans the scalp without stripping it of natural oils.
1.小蘇打。傳統的洗發水替代品,可以在不奪去天然油脂的同時清潔頭皮。
2. Apple cider vinegar. A popular alternative to conditioner, which works with the bicarbonate to restore the natural pH of the hair.
2.蘋果醋。非常受歡迎的護發素替代品,和小蘇打一起作用可以使頭發恢複到原本的PH值。
3. A bristle brush. Bristles stimulate the scalp and distribute sebum all the way down the hair shaft.
3.一根毛刷。可以刺激頭皮,而且還能頭皮上的皮脂順著頭發梳下來。
4. A hat or headscarf - for when it all gets too much.
4.帽子或頭巾。可以用在頭發太多的時候。
5. Willpower. Brace yourself for a few difficult weeks – Aitken Read has heard of it taking up to three months for particularly difficult hair types to adjust – and keep your eye on the prize of healthy, glossy, lustrous hair with zero effort.
5.毅力。做好要度過幾周難關的準備。露西曾聽說,發質不是特別好的人要花三個月來適應這個過程。隻要有毅力,就一定能擁有健康、柔順、有光澤的頭發。
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