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費蘭·阿德裏亞（Ferran Adrià）
For one day last week, the Diamond Ballroom at Hong Kong's new Ritz-Carlton hotel was turned into a lecture hall. The audience was a small group of media and die-hard foodies, and the speaker was Ferran Adrià, the man behind Spain's famed El Bulli restaurant and the world's most influential chef.
He was dressed in a white jacket with gray slacks and black dress shoes, but he wasn't giving a cooking demonstration. Instead, the 49-year-old Catalan pontificated like a philosophy professor on the existential nature of cuisine.
'When does a tomato taste like a tomato?' Mr. Adrià asked. Is it when you cut it and put salt on it? Is tomato sauce natural? He considered several other ingredients the same way too, pondering the hypothetical problem of creating a pastry made of strawberries. 'All of cuisine is an elaboration,' he said.
At El Bulli, Mr. Adrià was a pioneer of molecular gastronomy ─ a term he disdainfully describes as 'marketing.' The three-Michelin-star restaurant, which ranked No. 1 on Restaurant Magazine's World's 50 Best Restaurants a record five times over the past decade, was legendary for its deconstructionist and experimental cuisine.
Then, in July, at the height of El Bulli's powers, Mr. Adrià closed the eatery where he had first become head chef in the mid-1980s.
Which brings us to Hong Kong. It's a mark of the celebrity nature of chefs these days that Mr. Adrià was touring Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong courtesy of the Spanish tourism board, in the hopes of generating interest among Chinese travelers. It was his second visit to China, and he said he hopes to spend more time there ─ studying Chinese cuisine, of course.
'I'm more interested in finding out why dairy products aren't used in a dish than the dish itself,' he said in an interview. 'Why do they [the Chinese] put all the dishes in the middle of the table? Why do they cook vegetables so quickly but fish for so long? Why are there a lot more hot dishes than cold dishes in Chinese cuisine?'
Mr. Adrià's long-term project is a new culinary foundation, which is scheduled to open in 2014 on the site of his former restaurant. It will host a rotating group of 20 chefs who will visit for months at a time. Alongside Mr. Adrià, they will create new dishes and work on different approaches to cooking.
'It's a very strange project…and the most important challenge of my career,' he said. 'It's like if I were a musician who used to do 150 concerts a year and dedicated some time to composing. But then you change, to go to 90% composing and 10% performing. That's what I want to do.'
There were times when Mr. Adrià was tempted to open restaurants in his name around the world like many of his peers ─ Joel Robuchon or Gordon Ramsay, for instance. But he decided against it. 'I would have felt like I prostituted myself,' he said.
Still, he is aware of the business side of his profession.
'The restaurant never made money,' Mr. Adrià said, adding that most of his personal earnings come from consulting and advertising endorsements with firms such as PepsiCo and Spain's Telefónica. Corporate events were also a moneymaker ─ companies would pay up to 115,000 (about $188,000) to spend a full day at El Bulli and witness the chef in his kitchen, creating a sample of his dishes, he said.
He is targeting a fund of up to 8 million to pay for his new project. The site will house an archive, museum and special media presentation lab, all designed by Spanish architect Enric Ruiz-Geli.
While Mr. Adrià said the foundation is unique, he was inspired by Harvard University, where he taught a class in culinary physics last year.
'When one goes to Harvard, there's something that impresses you,' he said. 'That's the spirit of El Bulli, something overwhelming.'
參考譯文：
8月底的一天，香港新開的麗思卡爾頓酒店(Ritz-Carlton)的金鑽宴會廳變成了講堂。台下聽眾是一小群媒體人士和鐵杆老饕，台上講話的是西班牙著名餐館阿布衣餐廳（El Bulli，加泰羅尼亞語“鬥牛犬”之意）的掌門人、全球最具影響力的大廚費蘭•阿德裏亞(Ferran Adrià)。
阿德裏亞身穿白色上衣、灰色休閑褲和黑色正裝皮鞋。不過，這位49歲的加泰羅尼亞人並沒有做烹飪示範，反而像哲學教授那樣講起了烹調的存在主義本質。
edeliyawendao，shenmeshihoufanqiechiqilaiweidaoxiangfanqie？shinibataqiekailai，sashangyandeshihouma？fanqiejiangshitianrandema？tahaiyongtongyangfangshipouxileqitajizhongshicai，bingtantaoleruheyongcaomeilaizhizuogaodianzheyangyigexugoudewenti。tashuo，suoyoupengtiaodoushiyizhongchanshi。
在阿布衣餐廳，阿德裏亞是分子料理的先驅── “分子料理”這種說法他並不喜歡，並鄙夷地將其斥為一種營銷手段。阿布衣餐廳是一家米其林三星(three-Michelin-star)餐館，過去十年曾創紀錄地五次榮登英國《餐廳雜誌》(Restaurant Magazine)全球50家頂尖餐館排行榜榜首，這家餐館以其解構主義和實驗主義烹飪風格而享譽世界。
但阿德裏亞今年7月份關閉了處於發展巔峰期的阿布衣餐廳。阿德裏亞從二十世紀八十年代開始擔任該餐館主廚。
我們在香港見到了阿德裏亞。他應西班牙旅遊局之邀赴中國北京、上(shang)海(hai)和(he)香(xiang)港(gang)參(can)加(jia)西(xi)班(ban)牙(ya)旅(lv)遊(you)宣(xuan)傳(chuan)活(huo)動(dong)，這(zhe)彰(zhang)顯(xian)了(le)當(dang)今(jin)大(da)廚(chu)們(men)的(de)明(ming)星(xing)本(ben)色(se)。這(zhe)是(shi)阿(e)德(de)裏(li)亞(ya)第(di)二(er)次(ci)訪(fang)問(wen)中(zhong)國(guo)，他(ta)表(biao)示(shi)希(xi)望(wang)在(zai)中(zhong)國(guo)多(duo)待(dai)一(yi)段(duan)時(shi)間(jian)，當(dang)然(ran)，是(shi)為(wei)了(le)研(yan)究(jiu)中(zhong)國(guo)菜(cai)。
他在接受采訪時稱，“與yu菜cai肴yao本ben身shen相xiang比bi，我wo更geng感gan興xing趣qu的de是shi這zhe樣yang一yi些xie問wen題ti，比bi如ru為wei什shen麼me中zhong國guo菜cai裏li不bu放fang乳ru製zhi品pin，為wei什shen麼me中zhong國guo人ren把ba所suo有you菜cai都dou放fang在zai桌zhuo子zi中zhong間jian，為wei什shen麼me他ta們men做zuo蔬shu菜cai的de時shi間jian非fei常chang短duan，而er做zuo魚yu的de時shi間jian卻que很hen長chang？為wei什shen麼me中zhong國guo菜cai裏li熱re菜cai比bi冷leng菜cai要yao多duo得de多duo？”
阿德裏亞要做的長期項目是創立一個烹飪基金會，計劃於2014年在阿布衣餐廳原址開放。該基金會將安排廚師來此進行為期數月的訪問，每次人數為20名。大廚們將與阿德裏亞一道創作新菜肴，研究各種不同的烹調方法。
他表示，“這是一個非常特別的項目……是我職業生涯中最重大的挑戰。好比我是個音樂家，以前每年參加150場音樂會，另外還會花一點時間來作曲。但現在情況變了，要花90%的時間來創作，10%的時間來演出。這就是我想做的事情。”
阿德裏亞也曾經想要像若埃爾•羅比雄(Joel Robuchon)或戈登•拉姆齊(Gordon Ramsay)等諸多同行那樣，在世界各地開以自己名字命名的餐館，但他最終還是決定放棄。他說，“這讓我有種自賣自身的感覺。”
不過，他也會從商業角度來看自己的職業。
阿德裏亞稱，這家餐館從來沒賺過錢。他還說，他個人收入大多來自谘詢以及為百事公司(PepsiCo)、西班牙電信（Telef口nica）等企業做的廣告。公司活動也是一大收入來源。他說，公司會支付多達115,000歐元（約合188,000美元）包場阿布衣餐廳一天，並看他在廚房裏做烹飪示範。
他計劃最多斥資800萬歐元來實施他的新項目。舊址旁將建設一個檔案室、一座博物館和一間特殊媒體展示實驗室，均由西班牙建築師昂裏克•魯伊斯-傑利(Enric Ruiz-Geli)設計。
盡管阿德裏亞聲稱這個烹調基金會是獨一無二的，不過他也曾受到哈佛大學(Harvard University)的啟發。去年他曾在哈佛講授一門名為烹飪物理的課程。
他說， 當你走進哈佛的時候，會有一些東西攝住你的心神。阿布衣餐廳的精神也是如此，令人無法抗拒。
