亞洲菜肴入侵芝加哥
CHICAGO'S ASIAN INVASION

When I was growing up in Chicago's Chinatown, there were no good Chinese restaurants outside of our community. Vietnamese, Japanese and Thai was non-existent. The windy city was then known as a meat-and-potato town with Germanic roots for its culinary heritage. Although there was an occasional classic French, or a semblance of Italian, by and large it was a gastronomic desert. However, in the past 40 years, a social, cultural and ethnic earthquake has changed the face of dining in Chicago, as in the rest of metropolitan America. Curious about the impact of these changes on Asian cooking itself, I decided to investigate.
我在芝加哥的唐人街長大，那時，我們社區外還沒有像樣的中國餐館，也沒有越南、日本或泰國風味餐館。那時，人們把這個風城（windy city）稱為“肉和土豆”xiaozhen，pengrenchuantongyuanyudeguo。suiranoueryeyoubucuodefaguocaicanguan，huomianqiangsuanshiyidalicaidecanguan，danzhelijibenshanghaishiyigemeishihuangmo。raner
，zaiguoqu40年中，正如在美國的其他大城市發生了巨大變化那樣，一場社會、文化和種族大地震改變了芝加哥的飲食風貌。我十分好奇於這些變化對亞洲烹飪自身所產生的影響，於是決定去探查一番。

For a start, I was amazed at how many Japanese or Japanese-inspired restaurants there are. Even more startling was a fantastic meal I enjoyed at Charlie Trotter's. Of course, he is one of America's top chefs, and the best in Chicago, but this tasting menu (the only one available) was rather like a classic Japanese kaiseki meal, a traditional, multi-course dinner usually served in a ryokan, or country inn, in Japan. Here tiny tasting portions of cha soba were served with thin slices of sweet Asian pear, smoky grilled shiitake mushrooms were paired with a pungent Ponzu sauce and monkfish liver matched with yuzu granita was akin to a foie gras dish juxtaposed with a sharp tart flavour to cut the richness. The Easter egg radish with preserved carrots was like a dish from a Buddhist temple but tastier. The meal continued with textures and flavours dancing on my palate all evening.
一開始，我很驚訝地發現
，那裏有很多日本餐館，或從日本菜得到靈感的餐館。更令我驚奇的是在Charlie Trotter餐廳吃到的絕好的一餐。當然，他是美國頂尖的大廚，也是芝加哥最棒的。但那兒的品鑒菜單(也是唯一的菜單)卻(que)有(you)點(dian)像(xiang)典(dian)型(xing)的(de)日(ri)本(ben)懷(huai)石(shi)料(liao)理(li)。那(na)是(shi)一(yi)種(zhong)通(tong)常(chang)在(zai)日(ri)本(ben)的(de)溫(wen)泉(quan)或(huo)鄉(xiang)間(jian)小(xiao)館(guan)才(cai)有(you)的(de)傳(chuan)統(tong)晚(wan)餐(can)，分(fen)成(cheng)好(hao)幾(ji)道(dao)菜(cai)。在(zai)這(zhe)裏(li)，小(xiao)份(fen)的(de)品(pin)味(wei)五(wu)木(mu)茶(cha)麵(mian)配(pei)上(shang)薄(bo)片(pian)亞(ya)洲(zhou)甜(tian)梨(li)，煙(yan)薰(xun)香(xiang)菇(gu)佐(zuo)以(yi)柑(gan)橘(ju)醋(cu)，鯛(diao)肝(gan)配(pei)上(shang)柚(you)子(zi)格(ge)蘭(lan)尼(ni)它(ta)冰(bing)糕(gao)，就(jiu)好(hao)似(si)一(yi)盆(pen)鵝(e)肝(gan)佐(zuo)以(yi)酸(suan)澀(se)的(de)小(xiao)烘(hong)餅(bing)來(lai)調(tiao)和(he)肥(fei)膩(ni)。複(fu)活(huo)節(jie)蛋(dan)蘿(luo)卜(bu)配(pei)上(shang)醃(yan)製(zhi)的(de)胡(hu)蘿(luo)卜(bu)，像(xiang)極(ji)了(le)佛(fo)寺(si)裏(li)做(zuo)出(chu)來(lai)的(de)菜(cai)

，但(dan)味(wei)道(dao)要(yao)好(hao)得(de)多(duo)。那(na)頓(dun)飯(fan)


，一(yi)道(dao)道(dao)色(se)香(xiang)俱(ju)全(quan)的(de)美(mei)味(wei)菜(cai)肴(yao)讓(rang)我(wo)大(da)快(kuai)朵(duo)頤(yi)了(le)一(yi)整(zheng)晚(wan)。

Everyone in town seemed to be talking about Calvin Soh, new chef at Shanghai Terrace in the Peninsula hotel. Still in his 20s, Soh has worked for some of the best hotels in Singapore. On a Monday evening, the restaurant was packed. His five-spice squab was outstanding, with flavours bursting through every bite. His herbal chicken soup looked like clear tea but was as tasty as anything my mother would have made. His aomori abalone was the most Chinese of all his dishes, very tender, almost melting with a light glaze of oyster sauce. And just when I thought the meal couldn't get any better, Soh served up a fantastic Sichuan rack of lamb cooked perfectly with a combination of spicy fermented black beans and dried chillies, which infused the tender lamb with haunting aromas.
鎮上的每個人似乎都在談論半島酒店裏那個叫“上海露台”(Shanghai Terrace)的餐廳裏新來的廚師凱文?蘇(Calvin Soh)。蘇su年nian紀ji三san十shi不bu到dao，卻que已yi在zai多duo家jia新xin加jia坡po頂ding級ji酒jiu店dian掌zhang過guo勺shao。某mou個ge周zhou一yi夜ye晚wan
，餐can廳ting顧gu客ke盈ying門men。他ta做zuo的de五wu香xiang乳ru鴿ge很hen棒bang，咬yao一yi口kou，滿man嘴zui生sheng香xiang。他ta的de藥yao膳shan雞ji湯tang，湯tang色se如ru同tong清qing澈che的de茶cha水shui，滋zi味wei卻que不bu遜xun於yu我wo媽ma媽ma做zuo的de任ren何he一yi道dao菜cai。他ta做zuo的de青qing森sen鮑bao魚yu是shi所suo有you菜cai中zhong最zui有you中zhong國guo味wei的de
，嫩nen得de幾ji乎hu能neng與yu那na層ceng薄bo薄bo的de耗hao油you融rong在zai一yi起qi。正zheng當dang我wo對dui這zhe道dao菜cai歎tan為wei觀guan止zhi的de時shi候hou
，他ta又you上shang了le一yi道dao四si川chuan烤kao羊yang排pai，豆dou豉chi和he幹gan辣la椒jiao的de味wei道dao已yi經jing完wan全quan滲shen入ru鮮xian嫩nen的de羊yang肉rou
，香xiang氣qi撲pu鼻bi。

The meal was so good that I returned the next day for lunch. Weather permitting, ask to be seated on the terrace outside. In the glorious sun, I had classic Shanghai dumplings that were tastier and juicier than the usual variety. Another well-chosen dish was ahi tuna yu sheng, a refreshing salad with slices of the freshest tuna tossed with pickled papaya, peanuts, tart tangerine and spicy candied ginger all tossed with a sour plum dressing and what seemed to be a squeeze of lime juice. But it was the Singapore fried noodles that betrayed Soh's culinary roots of great Singapore street food. This was comfort food at its best in the hands of a skilled passionate chef.
那na頓dun飯fan實shi在zai太tai棒bang了le
，於yu是shi我wo第di二er天tian又you去qu吃chi了le中zhong飯fan。那na天tian天tian氣qi很hen好hao，所suo以yi我wo提ti出chu坐zuo到dao外wai麵mian的de露lu台tai上shang。在zai暖nuan暖nuan的de陽yang光guang下xia
，我wo吃chi到dao了le比bi一yi般ban湯tang包bao都dou更geng有you味wei道dao、汁水更多的上海湯包。另一道選得很滿意的菜是金槍魚魚生。那是一道開胃菜

，新鮮的金槍魚綴以番木瓜醬菜、花生、澀桔子
、辛(xin)辣(la)生(sheng)薑(jiang)蜜(mi)餞(jian)，再(zai)用(yong)不(bu)知(zhi)道(dao)是(shi)酸(suan)梅(mei)汁(zhi)還(hai)是(shi)酸(suan)橙(cheng)汁(zhi)拌(ban)了(le)一(yi)下(xia)。而(er)新(xin)加(jia)坡(po)炒(chao)麵(mian)卻(que)顯(xian)露(lu)了(le)蘇(su)的(de)廚(chu)藝(yi)源(yuan)於(yu)偉(wei)大(da)的(de)新(xin)加(jia)坡(po)街(jie)頭(tou)小(xiao)吃(chi)。在(zai)技(ji)藝(yi)精(jing)湛(zhan)又(you)富(fu)有(you)激(ji)情(qing)的(de)大(da)廚(chu)手(shou)中(zhong)，這(zhe)道(dao)菜(cai)的(de)美(mei)味(wei)展(zhan)露(lu)無(wu)遺(yi)。

It was not until I travelled to south-east Asia that I discovered Vietnamese cuisine. But since the end of the Vietnam war, Vietnamese immigrants have opened restaurants throughout the US and Chicago is no exception. Le Colonial, in the trendy part of town, was a brilliant discovery. With louvered shutters and rotating ceiling fans that evoke Vietnam's colonial past, it is decorated with superb taste. The heaving bar on the second floor cannot detract from the fact that the restaurant's food is just plain good. Start with classic goi cuon, tiny rice paper-wrapped spring rolls with prawns, pork and rice noodles and devoured with springs of fresh coriander and mint leaves. It came greaseless to the table so I knew there was a good Vietnamese chef in the kitchen.
我直到去了東南亞旅遊，才發現越南菜。但自從越南戰爭結束後，很多越南移民在美國各地開設了很多餐館，芝加哥也不例外。Le Colonialshiwozaixiaozhenshishangyiyudeyigezhongdafaxian。baiyechuanghezhuandongdediaoshanzhesheleyuenandezhimindilishi，zhejiadianzhuangxiudehenyoupinwei。erloudebataimeiyouyangaicantingmeiweishiwudeguanghuan。diyidaocaishichuantongdexiajuan(goi cuon)，一種小巧的米紙裹成的春卷，裏麵包著蝦肉、豬肉和米粉
，就著香菜絲和薄荷葉一起吃。上到桌上時，這道菜沒一點油脂，我便知道廚房中的越南師傅身手不凡。

The tom cuon ram – parcels filled with prawns, chicken and vegetables and served with an orange ginger dipping sauce – I found a bit heavy. Ca nuong was a sweet soy-glazed piece of grilled salmon served over rice noodles with dill, young mesclun greens and subtle lime garlic sauce. Ask for the salmon medium rare to prevent overcooking. The best dish was bun thit nuong, marinated slices of moist barbecued pork on a bed of very thin rice noodles. I couldn't stop eating it.
tom cuon ram——一種包有蝦肉、雞肉和蔬菜的食物，用橙汁生薑醬蘸著吃——覺得味道有點重。Ca nuong是一種烤三文魚，上麵塗了甜醬油
，底下是米粉
，就著嫩什生菜和淡橙汁蒜醬一起吃。三文魚要四分熟的，免得燒得過熟。最棒的是bun thit nuong，薄薄的一層米粉上有多汁的醃製叉燒。我吃得都不想停下來。

Nor could I resist trying Big Bowl, part of the Lettuce Entertain You group of restaurants with eight outlets. It features quick fast fresh Chinese and Thai food and is a buzzing restaurant with a wall of locally grown produce you can choose from and have stir-fried with any flavours you desire. The culinary éminence grise behind this successful concept is the chef and cookbook author, Bruce Cost. I tried Thai herb calamari – like Italian fried squid but served with a sweet spicy lemon sauce. Both the squid and sauce were perfectly executed. Chicken potstickers were excellent, pan-fried slowly with a crispy crust and the filling quite good. Kung pao chicken although not authentic in my opinion tasted delicious with an unusual touch of hoisin sauce that added a slight sweetness. Try Big Bowl's signature drink, fresh ginger ginger ale, a refreshing balance to the robust food. The service was friendly and efficient. On my way out, I had to see who was cooking in the open kitchen. What a surprise to find that every chef was of Mexican descent. Bruce Cost is a good teacher.
“大碗”的誘惑也讓人無法抗拒。它是Lettuce Entertain You集(ji)團(tuan)旗(qi)下(xia)的(de)餐(can)廳(ting)
，有(you)八(ba)家(jia)門(men)店(dian)，以(yi)中(zhong)式(shi)和(he)泰(tai)式(shi)快(kuai)餐(can)為(wei)特(te)色(se)，生(sheng)意(yi)很(hen)紅(hong)火(huo)，牆(qiang)上(shang)掛(gua)滿(man)了(le)當(dang)地(di)的(de)農(nong)作(zuo)物(wu)，你(ni)可(ke)以(yi)從(cong)中(zhong)選(xuan)擇(ze)幾(ji)種(zhong)混(hun)合(he)起(qi)來(lai)炒(chao)
，也(ye)能(neng)選(xuan)擇(ze)自(zi)己(ji)喜(xi)歡(huan)的(de)口(kou)味(wei)。這(zhe)個(ge)成(cheng)功(gong)理(li)念(nian)背(bei)後(hou)的(de)烹(peng)飪(ren)高(gao)手(shou)是(shi)大(da)廚(chu)和(he)菜(cai)譜(pu)製(zhi)作(zuo)者(zhe)Bruce Cost。我也吃了泰國草藥烏賊——和(he)意(yi)大(da)利(li)炸(zha)魷(you)魚(yu)有(you)點(dian)像(xiang)，但(dan)卻(que)以(yi)甜(tian)辣(la)檸(ning)檬(meng)汁(zhi)為(wei)蘸(zhan)醬(jiang)。魷(you)魚(yu)和(he)蘸(zhan)醬(jiang)都(dou)製(zhi)作(zuo)精(jing)良(liang)。雞(ji)肉(rou)鍋(guo)貼(tie)也(ye)很(hen)棒(bang)
，是(shi)用(yong)慢(man)火(huo)煎(jian)炸(zha)，皮(pi)脆(cui)餡(xian)鮮(xian)。宮(gong)爆(bao)雞(ji)丁(ding)雖(sui)然(ran)吃(chi)上(shang)去(qu)不(bu)夠(gou)正(zheng)宗(zong)

，但(dan)味(wei)道(dao)很(hen)不(bu)錯(cuo)，因(yin)為(wei)奇(qi)特(te)的(de)海(hai)鮮(xian)醬(jiang)使(shi)它(ta)帶(dai)上(shang)了(le)一(yi)絲(si)甜(tian)味(wei)。還(hai)有(you)“大碗”dezhaopaiyinliao
，jiangzhishengpi，shibaocanzhihoudetishenjiapin。zhelidefuwuzhoudaoergaoxiao。zaiwochulaidelushang
，worenbuzhuqukanchangkaishichufangzhongshishuizaizhangshao。chuhuwodeyiwai，suoyouchushidoushimoxigeyi。Bruce Cost這個師傅當得不錯。

Returning to Chicago's Chinatown is always full of nostalgia for me. However, if I had any doubts that the food there had lost its way, my mother quickly disproved it. We had lunch at her insistence at Emperor's Choice in the heart of Chinatown. Of course, it caters to tourists who order the usual chow mein and sweet and sour pork. But if you want authentic Chinese food, their seafood dishes are remarkable. We ordered a pan-fried salt and pepper Chilean seabass that was exquisite and skilfully cooked. A dish of fresh pea shoots stir-fried with garlic was so good, it would make any good Chinese kitchen proud.
再(zai)回(hui)到(dao)芝(zhi)加(jia)哥(ge)的(de)唐(tang)人(ren)街(jie)於(yu)我(wo)而(er)言(yan)已(yi)飽(bao)含(han)懷(huai)舊(jiu)的(de)意(yi)味(wei)。然(ran)而(er)，如(ru)果(guo)我(wo)懷(huai)疑(yi)那(na)兒(er)的(de)菜(cai)失(shi)去(qu)了(le)自(zi)己(ji)的(de)特(te)色(se)，媽(ma)媽(ma)就(jiu)會(hui)立(li)即(ji)表(biao)示(shi)不(bu)同(tong)意(yi)。在(zai)她(ta)的(de)堅(jian)持(chi)下(xia)，我(wo)們(men)在(zai)位(wei)於(yu)唐(tang)人(ren)街(jie)中(zhong)心(xin)地(di)段(duan)的(de)麗(li)晶(jing)海(hai)鮮(xian)酒(jiu)家(jia)(Emperor's Choice)餐can廳ting吃chi了le午wu飯fan。當dang然ran，那na兒er有you常chang見jian的de炒chao麵mian和he咕gu老lao肉rou。但dan如ru果guo你ni想xiang吃chi正zheng宗zong的de中zhong餐can，他ta們men的de海hai鮮xian不bu同tong凡fan響xiang。我wo們men點dian了le一yi份fen椒jiao鹽yan智zhi利li鱸lu魚yu，做zuo得de很hen精jing細xi，手shou藝yi也ye不bu錯cuo。豆dou苗miao炒chao大da蒜suan做zuo得de非fei常chang棒bang
，所suo有you中zhong式shi廚chu房fang都dou會hui為wei做zuo出chu這zhe樣yang一yi道dao菜cai而er驕jiao傲ao。

But the pièce de resistance was a live Dungeness crab from the US west coast, dispatched and stir-fried with ginger and spring onions in a hot wok. I watched with pleasure as my 84-year-old mother diligently picked at the sweet silken crab meat and ate it with pure bliss with spicy fresh ginger slices and sharp spring onions. She pronounced it rather good, indeed, giving it her blessings. It made me feel like I had come home.
令人無法抗拒其誘惑的要數來自美國西海岸的活鄧傑內斯蟹，這道菜是把蟹拆殼後與生薑和蔥在熱鍋中爆炒而成。我欣喜地看著84歲sui高gao齡ling的de老lao母mu親qin仔zai細xi挑tiao出chu甜tian美mei柔rou嫩nen的de蟹xie肉rou
，蘸zhan上shang蔥cong片pian和he薑jiang末mo慢man慢man享xiang用yong。她ta對dui其qi讚zan不bu絕jue口kou
，甚shen至zhi把ba它ta當dang成cheng一yi種zhong至zhi高gao無wu上shang的de享xiang受shou。這zhe讓rang我wo有you回hui家jia的de感gan覺jiao。