
There's little to complain about in Bangkok's food scene.
The city's street vendors serve up tasty and cheap soups, rice and noodle dishes, among other Thai standards. Numerous eateries provide a range of well-regarded global cuisine, whether it's crème brûlée, carbonara or ceviche.
But what about one of the most humble of Western food staples: bread? Until recently, residents had to make due with low-quality local loaves or standard, mass-produced fare sold at grocery stores.
Two recently opened shops, however, have Bangkok's carb-loving residents rejoicing.
BKK Bagel Bakery
BKK Bagel Bakery sells homemade, New York-style bagels (plain, salt, whole wheat, poppy seed, sesame and 'everything'), as well as sandwiches, lox and cream cheese.
The bagels have the right texture and consistency ─ crucial qualities for bagel connoisseurs ─ because the dough is boiled, says co-founder Eric Seldin, a Washington, D.C., native. He teamed up with a Thai partner, Tri Kanchanadul, to open the cafe in March. Both men found Bangkok bagels lacking, so they set out to do them correctly.
Mr. Seldin reckons they now offer the only proper New York-style bagels in Southeast Asia, if not East Asia, as well. 'Others import dough,' he says, and don't make their products from scratch.
In assembling the menu, he says he focused on 'the things I liked as a kid: tuna melts, roast beef, lox.' One of the café's most popular bagel sandwiches is the 'Show Stopper': turkey, havarti cheese, bacon, avocado and mustard. Another sandwich, 'Moishe's Lunch,' consists of corned beef and sauerkraut.
BKK sees a steady steam of customers, especially at lunchtime, and has attracted attention among local bloggers. Its bagels recently became available in Bangkok's first Dean and Deluca, as well as in a café at the U.S. Embassy.
Urban Pantry
518/3 Maneeya Center, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330
Urban Pantry is run by 36-year-old Arkansas native Benjamin Lord. A financial-services adviser by day, he began baking gourmet bread at home for fun last year, after a friend gave him the book 'Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day.'
Mr. Lord started baking six to eight loaves a week and selling them to acquaintances, but he now churns out as many as 120 loaves a week for a customer base that includes Americans, Australians, Europeans and Thais.
The delivery-only business has no commercial front and no standalone website but has gained popularity through word of mouth and social media like Facebook and Twitter.
Popular items include fire-roasted chili and cheddar whole-wheat bread, sun-dried-tomato-and-garlic sourdough, and New York-deli-style rye. Urban Pantry also sells biscotti, zucchini pickles, coleslaw and garlic-marinated sweet red peppers.
'The concept is to stock your pantry with things you can't get or that you miss from home,' Mr. Lord says.
The dishes reflect his background: He graduated from New York University and lived in the city for a year before moving to Ho Chi Minh City. He lived there for four years and worked in the import-export industry. He has been in Bangkok for nearly 10 years.
Urban Pantry's carrot-miso-ginger dressing was inspired, Mr. Lord says, by his days in New York, when he encountered such sauces in East Village restaurants. His Southern roots are reflected in quirky comfort foods like the occasionally available 'kitchen-sink potato salad,' whose recipe changes based on what's on hand.
He also uses his sales and marketing skills, he says, to provide his customers with personalized services, soliciting their feedback and suggesting products to order based on their family size and eating habits.
'Thai breads can be too sweet,' says Eric Forbes, an American based in Bangkok who orders frequently from Urban Pantry. He's become a fan of Urban Pantry's sourdough loaves and likes that the rye 'tastes different each week,' he says.
Mr. Lord says he hasn't made many concessions to local tastes, and he hasn't aimed to fill a void for products that weren't previously available. He says he uses all-natural ingredients, buying organic when he can and even preparing the sun-dried tomatoes himself.
One product is created strictly the way it's made in the South: his coleslaw. 'I use only Kraft mayonnaise,' he says.
Mr. Lord will soon be opening a dedicated baking facility in Bangkok but plans to continue his delivery-only model for now.
'I have no food and beverage experience,' he says, adding that his love of food is his driving force. 'That's basically it,' he says. 'I like to eat good.'
參考譯文:
吃在曼穀沒有什麼好挑剔的。這個城市的街頭小販提供各種美味而廉價的湯、米飯和麵條,以及其他各種泰式美食。大量餐館供應各式備受食客好評的全球各地風味美食,從法國的甜點烤布蕾(creme brulee)、意大利的奶油培根麵(carbonara)到拉丁風味海鮮沙拉(ceviche),不一而足。
那(na)麼(me)西(xi)式(shi)食(shi)物(wu)中(zhong)最(zui)不(bu)起(qi)眼(yan)的(de)主(zhu)食(shi)麵(mian)包(bao)呢(ne)?一(yi)直(zhi)以(yi)來(lai),在(zai)曼(man)穀(gu)隻(zhi)能(neng)吃(chi)到(dao)雜(za)貨(huo)店(dian)售(shou)賣(mai)的(de)低(di)質(zhi)本(ben)地(di)麵(mian)包(bao)或(huo)批(pi)量(liang)生(sheng)產(chan)的(de)普(pu)通(tong)貨(huo)色(se),直(zhi)到(dao)最(zui)近(jin),這(zhe)種(zhong)情(qing)況(kuang)才(cai)有(you)了(le)改(gai)觀(guan)──兩家新開張的麵包店給曼穀的澱粉質食物愛好者帶來了欣喜。
BKK Bagel Bakery
BKK Bagel Bakery出售自製的紐約式麵包圈(無味的、鹹的、全麥的、罌粟籽的、芝麻的,等等等等,應有盡有),還賣三明治、熏鮭魚和奶油乳酪。
麵包店的共同創辦者、來自美國華盛頓市的埃裏克•賽爾丁(Eric Seldin)說,麵包圈的口感和韌度都恰到好處──這可是麵包圈行家最重視的品質──因為用的是燙麵。他與他的泰國合夥人特裏•坎查納多(Tri Kanchanadul)今年3月一起開了這家店。兩人都發現了曼穀現有的麵包圈的不足之處,於是開了這家店,采用正確的方法來製作麵包圈。
賽(sai)爾(er)丁(ding)估(gu)計(ji),他(ta)們(men)就(jiu)算(suan)在(zai)東(dong)亞(ya)不(bu)算(suan)獨(du)家(jia),至(zhi)少(shao)也(ye)是(shi)東(dong)南(nan)亞(ya)地(di)區(qu)目(mu)前(qian)出(chu)售(shou)正(zheng)宗(zong)紐(niu)約(yue)式(shi)麵(mian)包(bao)圈(quan)的(de)唯(wei)一(yi)一(yi)家(jia)麵(mian)包(bao)店(dian)。他(ta)說(shuo),其(qi)他(ta)家(jia)都(dou)進(jin)口(kou)麵(mian)團(tuan),而(er)且(qie)不(bu)是(shi)整(zheng)個(ge)生(sheng)產(chan)環(huan)節(jie)都(dou)親(qin)力(li)親(qin)為(wei)。在(zai)口(kou)味(wei)的(de)組(zu)合(he)上(shang),賽(sai)爾(er)丁(ding)說(shuo)他(ta)著(zhe)重(zhong)於(yu)自(zi)己(ji)小(xiao)時(shi)候(hou)喜(xi)歡(huan)的(de)東(dong)西(xi):金槍魚三明治、烤牛肉、熏鮭魚。店裏最受歡迎的麵包圈三明治叫“壓軸戲”(Show Stopper),有火雞肉、哈瓦蒂幹酪、培根、鱷梨加芥末醬。另一種三明治“摩西午餐”(Moishe’s Lunch)裏頭則有牛肉粒和酸菜。
BKK的人氣穩步提升,特別是午餐時段,而且吸引了當地眾多博客的注意。他們的麵包圈最近在曼穀首間Dean and Deluca超市開始供應,在美國大使館的一家咖啡廳裏也有售。
Urban Pantry
(曼穀Ploenchit路Maneeya Center 3樓518室(10330))
Urban Pantry由36歲的阿肯色州人本傑明•羅德(Benjamin Lord)經營。他的本職是金融服務顧問,去年朋友送了他一本《五分鍾手工麵包》(Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day)之後,他出於好玩開始在家烤製美味麵包。
羅德起初每星期烤六至八條麵包,把它們賣給熟人。現在他每周要做120條麵包,顧客包括美國人、澳大利亞人、歐洲人和泰國人。
這項隻供外賣的業務沒做廣告,也沒有獨立網站,但卻通過口口相傳及Facebook和Twitter等社交媒體贏得了知名度。
最受歡迎的品種包括辣椒和切達奶酪全麥麵包、蕃茄幹香蒜酵母麵包和紐約熟食店裏常見的裸麥麵包。此外還出售意大利脆餅、西葫蘆醃菜、涼拌卷心菜絲和蒜香甜紅椒。
羅德說,“我的理念是用你缺少或買不到的東西豐富你家食品櫃的內容。”
羅德提供的產品反映出了他的生活背景:他畢業於紐約大學(New York University),在紐約居住一年後移居胡誌明市,在那裏生活了四年,就職於進出口業。如今他在曼穀已經住了將近十年。
羅德說,Urban Pantry的胡蘿卜味噌生薑調料靈感源自他在紐約的生活,當時他在East Village餐廳見到了這種調味汁。有些怪怪的懷舊食物則是因為他是在美國南方長大的,像偶爾供應的“洗碗槽土豆沙拉”,其配方不定,完全就是手頭現成有什麼就弄什麼。
luodeshuo,tahaiyunyonglezijidexiaoshouheshichangjineng,geiguketigonggexinghuafuwu,suoqiutamendefankui,genjutamendejiatingrenshuheyinshixiguantuijiantamendinggouhezhongchanpin。
長住曼穀的美國人艾瑞克•福布斯(Eric Forbes)說:“泰國麵包通常都太甜了。”他頻繁地訂購Urban Pantry的美食,如今他已經成了酵母麵包的粉絲,也喜歡“每個星期味道都不一樣”的裸麥麵包。
羅luo德de說shuo,他ta沒mei有you過guo多duo遷qian就jiu當dang地di口kou味wei,也ye沒mei專zhuan門men去qu填tian補bu之zhi前qian所suo沒mei有you的de產chan品pin的de空kong缺que。他ta說shuo他ta采cai用yong的de都dou是shi全quan天tian然ran食shi材cai,盡jin可ke能neng買mai有you機ji原yuan料liao,甚shen至zhi自zi己ji製zhi作zuo蕃bo茄qie幹gan。
有一種產品是嚴格按照美國南方的製作方式烹製的──涼拌卷心菜絲。羅德說,“我隻用卡夫牌蛋黃醬。”
羅德不久將在曼穀開設一家專做麵點的店鋪,但是計劃延用目前的隻供外賣的模式。
他說,“我沒有製作食物和飲品的經驗。”他表示,對食物的熱愛是他的動力。“基本上是因為,我自己喜歡吃得好。”
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