The recession may be finishing what environmentalists started a few years ago: the end of the bottled-water fad. Twice in the past week I have been in restaurants that just a year ago would have been pushing still or sparkling water at their patrons from the moment they sat down. This time the waiters said merely: "Tap water OK?" When low-margin businesses like restaurants start passing on juicy profit centers-in this case, the chance to charge premium prices for a cheap commodity-you know something dramatic has happened. The rise and fall of bottled water may be the best case study yet in the strange politics of trendy environmental causes.

    Bottled water got its foothold in the U.S. as a statement about healthy living. The 1980s craze for sweating at the gym launched a durable fad for toting around bottles of mountain spring water. To drink something so natural was to be "Fit on the Inside"-in the words of an ad campaign that nicely captured the soul-craft of the treadmill set.

    But even without the example set by aerobicizers, the popularity of bottled water had a push. Go back to the mid-'90s, when the trend was booming, and one finds a steady drip-drip of frightful tap-scares. Perhaps no one did more to promote the bottled water craze than the Environmental Working Group, a Washington-based activist organization that issued report after breathless report about the lethal dangers spewing from American taps. There were the 1995 studies alleging that 1,000 Americans a year were dying from tainted municipal water, with an extra 400,000 sickened by faucet-flowing pathogens. In 1997 came the alarm that some 245 Midwest towns were serving up a toxic cocktail of HO and weed killer. In 2001 it was rocket fuel in California aquifers. In 2002 the group warned that the chlorine used to disinfect tap water led to "a health risk for pregnant women."

    Faced with this drumbeat of doom, consumers might be forgiven for having taken to the bottle. How else were they to quaff the 64 ounces of water a day they had been told was essential to health? For a little while, carrying a bottle of water was the very symbol of fashionable health-consciousness. But fashions change: Now bottled water is the eco-equivalent of last year's frock. And so none other than the Environmental Working Group was on Capitol Hill last month mounting a full-throated campaign against the stuff. The thrust was that, hey, if you run tap water through a filter, it isn't really so bad after all-and quite the bargain too!

    Environmentalists complain of all the energy wasted shipping and trucking bottled water around, but their most ardent scorn is reserved for the bottles themselves. Once upon a time plastic bottles made from lightweight polyethylene terephthalate, or PET, were an innovation meant to be relatively friendly to the planet. They could be stomped into thin discs, crushed by hand or even rolled up like toothpaste tubes, thus taking up a small space in landfills. Now they are seen as bad in every way, choking the rising oceans and poisoning our precious bodily fluids with leaching carcinogens （an idea promulgated by such august academic journals as the Proceedings of the Society of Anonymous Chain Emails）.

    The trendy disdain for plastic bottles has produced a new fad for reusable containers. Helping to shame the sinners is Sigg, a Swiss manufacturer of stylish little metal jugs. The bottles are available with eco-slogans such as "Make Love Not Landfill," "Rise Above Plastic" and "Green Is the New Black." Or how's this for pushy: "Friends don't let friends drink from plastic." （In my book, friends don't bully friends over the water they drink.）

    And so an innocent choice consumers were urged to feel good about comes to be fraught with moral peril. Part of the appeal of bottled water, after all, was that you didn't have to plan ahead by filling a canteen. It was available at a moment's notice, purchased at a bodega or wrangled from a vending machine. It could stand as a healthy alternative to soda, packaged attractively enough to lure consumers who would otherwise be seduced by caramel-colored fructose bombs.

    It wasn't that long ago that making water available everywhere was itself a sort of crusade. In 2005 the American Beverage Association urged its members to stop selling sugary drinks in schools. A year later the Clinton Foundation, acting on the former president's preoccupation with weighty issues, persuaded Coke and Pepsi to phase out their signature products from campus vending machines, replacing the siren-song of soda with pure, healthful water and juice for kids. But now schools such as Washington University in St. Louis have made "Ban the Bottle" a campus cry. Thus does one crusade lead to another, with the solution to yesterday's crisis providing the stuff of today's.

    當流行風尚遇上易變的不安

    幾年前由環保主義者引起的經濟衰退也許正在結束：pingzhuangchunjingshuiliuxingdezhongjie。wozaiguoqudeyizhouzhongzengliangciquguoyixiefandian，jiuzaiyinianyiqianzhiyaoshifandiandelaozhugugangyiruzuotamenjiuhuimashangduanlairuanyinliaohuotansuanyinliao。ranerxianzaifuwushengzejinjinhuishuo："白水可以嗎
？"當一些像飯店這樣的低利潤商家開始轉嫁多利潤中心時--在這種情況下，有機會調高低端商品的價格--你就會知道一些戲劇性的事情發生了。瓶裝水的多少也許是研究現代環保主義者的政見的最佳方式。

    瓶ping裝zhuang純chun淨jing水shui作zuo為wei健jian康kang生sheng活huo的de象xiang征zheng在zai美mei國guo曾zeng有you穩wen固gu的de地di位wei。在zai十shi九jiu世shi紀ji八ba十shi年nian代dai興xing起qi了le一yi種zhong穿chuan可ke以yi攜xie帶dai用yong來lai裝zhuang山shan泉quan水shui的de瓶ping子zi的de結jie實shi耐nai用yong的de運yun動dong衣yi風feng潮chao。喝he天tian然ran水shui那na時shi象xiang征zheng了le"內在的健康"--這是一個廣告語，它曾成功地俘獲了每天從事單調繁重工作的人們的心。

    然(ran)而(er)就(jiu)算(suan)沒(mei)有(you)有(you)氧(yang)運(yun)動(dong)者(zhe)的(de)榜(bang)樣(yang)宣(xuan)傳(chuan)
，礦(kuang)泉(quan)水(shui)的(de)普(pu)及(ji)也(ye)得(de)到(dao)了(le)推(tui)進(jin)。回(hui)顧(gu)九(jiu)十(shi)年(nian)代(dai)中(zhong)期(qi)，當(dang)時(shi)風(feng)潮(chao)正(zheng)起(qi)
，有(you)人(ren)出(chu)現(xian)了(le)一(yi)種(zhong)持(chi)續(xu)的(de)同(tong)時(shi)很(hen)嚴(yan)重(zhong)的(de)恐(kong)自(zi)來(lai)水(shui)症(zheng)。也(ye)許(xu)沒(mei)有(you)人(ren)比(bi)環(huan)境(jing)保(bao)護(hu)主(zhu)義(yi)組(zu)織(zhi)為(wei)宣(xuan)傳(chuan)瓶(ping)裝(zhuang)純(chun)淨(jing)水(shui)做(zuo)的(de)工(gong)作(zuo)再(zai)多(duo)了(le)，一(yi)家(jia)華(hua)盛(sheng)頓(dun)的(de)積(ji)進(jin)組(zu)織(zhi)曾(zeng)報(bao)道(dao)說(shuo)在(zai)美(mei)國(guo)喝(he)自(zi)來(lai)水(shui)有(you)發(fa)生(sheng)劇(ju)烈(lie)嘔(ou)吐(tu)的(de)致(zhi)命(ming)的(de)危(wei)險(xian)。1995年，調查研究顯示1000名美國人死於喝了受汙染的城市水，另有400000人由於飲用自來水生病。1997年
，近245個中西部城市中的雞尾酒含有類似於HO和除草劑的有毒物質。2001年，查出加州的居民用水中含有石油雜質。2002年，有關團體就抗議說用氯來淨化自來水將會導致"對孕婦生命健康的極大威脅".

    麵對這樣恐怖的事實，消費者們也許就會不介意飲用瓶裝純淨水了。畢竟他們還能通過什麼方式來一天暢飲64盎司的健康必需品--水呢？有那麼一陣，帶一瓶礦泉水是時尚的健康理念的象征。但是流行會變的：現在，瓶裝純淨水已經是過時的環保等效物了。因而環境保護組織上個月在Capitol Hill組織了一場全麵的有計劃的反對運動。它的標語是，嘿
，如果你用過濾器來淨化自來水的話，真的不是那麼糟，而且它還很合算！

    環huan保bao者zhe抱bao怨yuan太tai多duo能neng源yuan浪lang費fei在zai運yun輸shu瓶ping裝zhuang水shui上shang，但dan是shi他ta們men最zui嗤chi之zhi以yi鼻bi的de是shi瓶ping子zi材cai料liao本ben身shen。很hen久jiu以yi前qian用yong聚ju乙yi烯xi做zuo成cheng的de塑su料liao瓶ping被bei認ren為wei是shi保bao護hu地di球qiu的de重zhong大da創chuang新xin。它ta們men可ke以yi被bei踩cai成cheng扁bian片pian兒er，或huo像xiang牙ya膏gao管guan一yi樣yang被bei搓cuo成cheng一yi團tuan
，從cong而er掩yan埋mai的de時shi候hou隻zhi占zhan一yi點dian小xiao地di方fang。現xian在zai，它ta們men在zai所suo有you方fang麵mian都dou被bei認ren為wei是shi有you害hai的de，它ta們men阻zu礙ai了le植zhi物wu的de生sheng長chang
，其qi含han有you的de致zhi癌ai物wu質zhi毒du害hai了le我wo們men體ti內nei的de珍zhen貴gui的de循xun環huan機ji製zhi（這一觀點權威學術雜誌所公布）.

    fanduisuliaopingderechaoyanshenglexindekezailiyongrongqideliuxing。shizuirendiulianderenshishengren，yuziyiweiruishixiaoxingshishangjinshuzhipinhuzhizuoshang。youguanpingzidegongyiguanggaosuichukejian

，jiuxiang，"做愛
，不填埋（?）""遠離塑料"以及"綠色是新的黑色"或者這個新鮮的廣告怎麼樣："朋友 不要讓你的朋友用塑料製品喝水。"（在我看來就是，朋友不要用他們喝的水來威脅朋友）

    yinciwugudexiaofeizhemenzengbeijiliguchuierjiaodebucuodexuanzezhengzaiyanbianchengyizhongyoulv
，zhebenshenjiushizaijingshenshangdehezijiguobuqu。pingzhuangshuideyibufenxiyinlijiushi
，nibuxuyaobafeijindiqutianmanqijugui。zhezaidangshidexuanchuanzhongshisuichukejiande，goumaihaishitongzidongfanmaijizhenglun。takeyizuoweijiuxiangshiguanyusudashui，beibaozhuangdezugouxiyinnaxieyoukenengbeijiaotangyansedepingzixiyindexiaofeizhedejiankangxuanzejizhi。

    使水隨處可見並不是很久以前的一場運動。在2005年(nian)美(mei)國(guo)飲(yin)料(liao)協(xie)會(hui)就(jiu)提(ti)倡(chang)它(ta)的(de)成(cheng)員(yuan)們(men)停(ting)止(zhi)在(zai)校(xiao)園(yuan)販(fan)賣(mai)含(han)糖(tang)飲(yin)料(liao)。一(yi)年(nian)之(zhi)後(hou)克(ke)林(lin)頓(dun)基(ji)金(jin)會(hui)，針(zhen)對(dui)前(qian)總(zong)統(tong)關(guan)注(zhu)的(de)重(zhong)要(yao)事(shi)項(xiang)，勸(quan)說(shuo)可(ke)口(kou)可(ke)樂(le)和(he)百(bai)事(shi)重(zhong)新(xin)設(she)計(ji)校(xiao)園(yuan)販(fan)賣(mai)機(ji)上(shang)它(ta)們(men)產(chan)品(pin)的(de)標(biao)示(shi)

，為(wei)了(le)孩(hai)子(zi)

，用(yong)純(chun)淨(jing)的(de)
、健康的水和果汁來代替有害的蘇打。然而現在的學校，像聖路易斯的華盛頓大學已經推出了"禁止瓶子"的校園號召。因此，從一個運動到另一個運動，伴隨著過去危機的解決與現在新事物的產生。